Quaint and Quirky: Alaska’s Cruise Ports

The natural beauty, of course, is the real star of Alaska. Snowy mountains everywhere you look. Glaciers that are really that blue. Waterways littered with ice in late May. Soaring eagles, breaching whales. Desolate, pristine, untouched loveliness.

But the ports are a hoot, too.

They’re quaint and quirky, as only they can be in a state that refers to the rest of us as the “Lower 48.”

And you’re never far from that overwhelming beauty—as you will see from the towns’ settings. We enjoyed them immensely and know you will too. Here, as briefly as possible, are my highlights of the ports of Juneau, Skagway and Ketchikan—all easily walkable from the piers:

Juneau—If you’ve been to San Francisco, you’ll understand when I say a few minutes walking

Juneau, Alaska's capital

through the streets of the Juneau will reacquaint you with your calf muscles. On one of those hills is the unassuming St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church that, with its small onion dome, looks strangely out of place. You can find other reminders of Alaska’s Russian past in the shops, with their array of nesting dolls. For those of us not planning a trip to Russia anytime soon, they make fun and different souvenirs.

 
The state capital is small and we saw it all before lunch. We then grabbed an inexpensive bus (the vendors lined up along the pier) to

The icy waters of Mendenhall Glacier

Mendenhall Glacier, only 12 miles away. You get great views of the glacier in the park, which provides several vantage points.

Skagway—This is a literally a town made for tourists. There are only 950 or so full-time residents, one school, one AM and one FM radio station, and a post office that closes for lunch. But when the cruise ships are in town, the population swells to more than triple its usual size.

Skagway: Ft. Lauderdale of the North?

With its frontier-style buildings, some dating back to the Gold Rush days, Skagway was the most charming of the three ports. At the turn-of-the-century Red Onion saloon, it’s not hard to picture down-on-their-luck miners dulling the pain with camaraderie, drink and women more than happy to take their last dime.
 
Here’s a funky piece of Skagway trivia from the Golden Princess’ Princess Patter: because Skagway is in one of the driest (as in less rain) parts of Alaska, it attracts college students on spring break and has become known as the “Ft. Lauderdale of the North.” Not sure about that comparison, when late springtime temps in Skagway barely make it out of the 50s!

Ketchikan—Just shopping alone can keep you busy the whole time you’re here. Whether you’re after pricey Eskimo art or cheap trip mementos, you’ll have plenty of choice. And if you like salmon, you’ll be in seventh heaven in Ketchikan, the self-described “Salmon Capital of the World.”

Scenes, spots and shops of colorful Ketchikan

Beginning in June, fish traveling up the Salmon Ladder for spawning becomes a tourist attraction. We were there too early for this show, but got our fill of the fish, tasting our way through the shops selling it canned, smoked, spiced or petrified.
 
One of the many areas where you’ll find the salmon shops is Creek Street, the town’s old red light district. Today it’s a cluster of cutesy shops built on wood pilings over a clear, rustic rushing brook.
 
Then there are the totem poles—on the streets, in the parks, in front of shops and inside them.

You can bring one home to sit on your desk or to fill an entire corner of your living room. They’re colorful, intriguing and expensive.

Alas, you’re likely to see all this fun stuff from beneath the rim of an umbrella. Ketchikan gets an average of 153 inches of rain a year. Which explains, said the Golden Princess’ Juneau-born cruise director, why “in Alaska, we don’t tan, we rust.”

Find Culture and Photo Ops in the Food Markets of the Caribbean

There are few better places for immersing yourself in local Caribbean culture than island food markets.

Wander past open stalls laden with fruits and vegetables you recognize and some you don’t, dodge the children running in and out of the aisles as kids everywhere do, see vendors swapping gossip—it’s a glimpse into a world beyond the souvenir shops.

Best yet, they’re only a stone’s throw from the piers.

Ask a local to identify one of those strange food items. A few weeks ago in Dominica, a vendor told 

Sorrel destined for juice

me his pile of what looked like red flower tops was sorrel (in the hibiscus family), which the locals use to make juice during the Christmas season.

When you show some curiosity, you’ll learn something about the island where you’re spending your time and money.

And if photography’s your thing, these markets offer great photo ops.

But a word of warning: at some markets, such as Granada’s Spice Market, some vendors sell aggressively. And at all the markets—like those anywhere else in the world—you may find some locals who look at you with suspicion, yet others who are friendly and welcoming, and willing to answer a well-meaning question or two.

So, here’s my top list of food markets:


Roseau farmers market

Dominica (Roseau) farmers market—pineapples, bananas, mangos, ginger and many other types of fruit and vegetables are sold from open stalls in the capital city of Roseau. When you get off the ship and walk down the pier, make a left and walk down to the waterfront. For more on the market, visit the website of the Uncommon Caribbean.


Fresh from the sea in Barbados

 
Barbados (Bridgetown) fish market—all matter of seafood—mahi-mahi, tuna and swordfish, to name a few— is cleaned in full view and sold to the public. It’s along the Princess Alice Highway and if you’re walking into Bridgetown from the ship, you can’t miss it on the right-hand side. 


Spice Market in Granada

Granada (St. George’s) Spice Market—spices in bags or baskets for home use or gifts can be bought very inexpensively at the colorful and frenetic market on Grand Anse Beach. For a few dollars, you can get a unique necklace made of turmeric, nutmeg and bay leaf—spices grown on the island (note: the necklace deteriorates very quickly)

Curaçao (Willemstad) floating market—vendors come to Curaçao from Venezuela to sell their papaya, coconuts and more right from their wooden boats

And while you’re absorbing the local culture, you might consider purchasing an item or two to help the island economy. The vendors become considerably warmer when they have an American dollar or two in their hands!

Know of any other food markets? Do share!

Cruising Alaska 101

This week, I’m going to switch gears and talk about Alaska. With most of the country in a deep freeze, probably the idea of Alaska as a destination is not top of mind right now. But if you’ve been thinking about it at all for coming warmer months, better act now. The season is short and cruises fill up fast.

Cruising in Alaska is not a topic where I have a lot of experience; admittedly, I’ve only done it once. But, I thought it would be worth devoting a posting or two to sharing what we learned to help if you’re planning one.

Which Cruise Line?

The biggest decision we were faced with once we committed to abandoning our therapeutic Caribbean trip for the more exciting Alaska one was: which cruise line?

We decided to go with Princess, which was reputed to be the reigning cruise line in Alaska. One key reason is that the cruise line has been doing it for a long time. And while we didn’t take advantage, Princess has a number of wilderness lodges and cruise-tours that allow you to see more of the state. Holland America is the other cruise line that is particularly strong in Alaska, with many of its own cruise-tour offerings.

Tracy Arm or Glacier Bay?

Glacier Bay at Memorial Day

The next major decision was, Tracy Arm or Glacier Bay? We spent weeks researching these two itinerary choices and in the end, it was a cruiser’s comment in Cruise Critic that nailed it for me. He had said something to the effect of “I’ve been to Glacier Bay and now I can die happy.”



Glacier Bay's blue-ice glacier

Now while that’s rather dramatic, I believe we made the right choice. It provided unparalleled scenery that’s given me a new perspective on our 49^th state. Another reason to consider Princess: it’s one of the few cruise lines with coveted permission to travel through the spectacular park.
 

When to Go?
The books and travel agents told us:

Spring—if you want less rain and clearer view of the mountains
Summer—if you want more wildlife
Fall—if you want fewer crowds

My advice is to forget it all—go when you want. I say that because we chose spring and had rain or overcast skies for six out of seven days.

How to Get it All in One Suitcase?
We live in Florida, so when we Caribbean cruise, we just drive to Ft. Lauderdale. That means we can pack just about anything. It was a whole different ball game going to Alaska. The more we read about what to bring, the more we wondered, how the dickens do we get all that in one, 50-pound suitcase? Here are a few tips to tackle that what-do-I-pack dilemma:

·       Jeans at dinner. Really. Surprisingly, the Alaska cruise was more casual than the ones in the Caribbean and I was astounded to find folks showing up in the main dining room on casual nights in jeans (at least on Princess). After a few days, I joined them. If the cruise line didn’t like it, it didn’t let on

 

·       It’s what’s outside the ship that counts. Here’s another big difference between Alaska and Caribbean cruises: you’re in Alaska to see the scenery and wildlife. Invest in cameras, binoculars and comfortable clothing

·       Think simple, basic and warm. You can skip the bathing suit, cover-up and flip-flops. The suntan lotion and sun hats. All you need are jeans, shirts and a coat. A few nice outfits for formal nights and if you want to get out of those jeans once in a while. And that’s pretty much it

The Alaska cruise got us out of our comfort zone and I'll be forever pleased we did it. If you’re on the fence, I urge you to give it a try because it will be a unique, truly memorable experience. The scenery is otherworldly, the ports are Hollywood-cute and the shopping is a blast (salmon jerky, anyone?). But, just so you don’t get shocked—there’s a Del Sol and Diamond International in Juneau!