Paradise Revived: St. Maarten Two Years After Irma

The French woman kept her shop. But the two vendors next to her weren’t so lucky.

The owner of the Amsterdam Cheese & Liquor Store said Irma blew out his windows, shut off his power and wreaked havoc in his shop. His vast inventory of expensive cheese was gone. Without insurance, it set him back two years. “It’s the price you pay for living in Paradise,” he said with a shrug.

Today, two years after the category 5 hurricane rammed through St. Maarten, Philipsburg is alive and kicking, with rebuilding and rising spirits.

For the cruiser, the heart of Philipsburg doesn’t look a whole lot different than before the storm. The water is just as blue. The shoreline is still lined with bustling bars and cafes, colorful umbrellas and beachy funkiness.

Jet skis keep kicking up their spray as they fly across the harbor. Front Street still sports chic jewelry and clothing shops. And uniformed kids forever fill the streets with their lunchtime laughter. 

Yet, signs of Irma remain. There are a few boarded windows here and there. The landmark Belgian chocolate shop with its iconic replica of Brussels’ Manneken Pis is gone from Old Street. In fact, not much retail remains on Old Street. Many small businesses with insurance took their money and ran, says the cheese shop owner. Noticeably missing from the side streets is the once plethora of small vendors and stalls.

But the optimism and openness to tourism that has long been the hallmark of this Eastern Caribbean island staunchly remains.

It’s what led to quick rebuilding, the launch of vibrant new shops, restaurants and bars, and is what continues to make St. Maarten a wonderful port to visit.

Musing’s Top Tip: There are two ways to get into Philipsburg from the ship—inexpensive water taxi (about 5 minutes) or walk (about 10 minutes). If you’re walking, look for the sign for the sidewalk, which is behind the pier shopping. The reward for walking is passing by the wonderful Amsterdam Cheese Shop, with its Gouda, Edam and other international treats, and colorful Dutch-themed souvenirs.